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FREQUENTLY
ASKED QUESTIONS
Is That Post &
Beam or Log?
A Comparison of Post
& Beam and Log Homes
By Joi Singleton
Tannert, ASID
When it comes to frequently asked
questions, I think the one we hear most often would have to be,
“Post & Beam, ah, is that like a log home?” And a most
likely answer could be, “yes….and no.” To the interior
viewer, a post & beam and a log both have exposed wood frames,
and often, wooden walls and ceilings. They rely on the large
skeleton to support the load of the home. But actually, that is
pretty much where the similarities end. They seem to have more
differences.
The exterior of a log home is
unmistakable. It is the very style of the home, and it sets it
apart from any other type of home. Post & beam, on the other
hand, is not a style, but a structure type. You can not usually
detect it until you enter the home. The exterior can look like any
other style of home…Saltbox, Farmhouse, Cape Cod, Contemporary,
Country French, Arts & Crafts, Mountain Style, Lodge, etc. It
easily blends into most neighborhoods, and meets architectural
review covenants without a problem. Since the walls are not
dictated by the product structure, post & beam walls and
ceilings do not have to be wood. They can be drywall, rather than
tongue & groove wood, if desired. This creates more
flexibility for interior design styles, allowing them to be more
varied if desired.
Post & beam homes are typically
more energy efficient than log structures. Since the structural
support is exposed on the inside, the walls and ceilings are built
with a continuous wrap of rigid insulation. This continuous wrap
of rigid insulation is attached to the outside of the home’s
skeleton. All gaps are sealed in the installation process. This
results in a more efficient use of the R-value of the insulation.
All walls are a uniform thickness. Most traditional log homes
depend on the thickness of the logs as the insulator. With round
logs, obviously the thickness varies from the center to the edge
of the log. Some add small amounts of insulation, along with
caulks and sealers, to the area when the logs join each other.
There usually are no multiple layers to trap air or block water
vapors from entering, thus sealing between the logs is a must. You
generally need to increase the thickness of the logs in order to
increase the insulation / R-value. This thicker wall results in a
visual proportion change to the rooms inside the home. Some log
companies offer insulated walls of standard 2”x4”
construction, which incorporate an exterior of half logs. This is
designed to reduce the air infiltration and increase the R-value
in the walls.
One major difference I have found
between post & beam and log is the way in which the wood, and
the structural character of wood itself, is used. A wood pole or
post, by nature, will shrink and expand in its width or diameter.
The amount of shrinkage is directly affected by the moisture
content of the wood, as well as the humidity around it. The
temperatures and humidity inside a home are never totally
constant. In post & beam, the length of the wood is used
vertically as the main support, joining lengthwise horizontal
members by mortise and tenon joinery. The joints are then locked
together with wooden pegs. Attached walls are non-bearing. A post
that shrinks widthwise may show a slight visual gap where the
beams join on each side, however, there are no structural problems
which occur from this type of shrinkage. On the other hand, log
homes use the wood stacked on its side, horizontally. One course
on top of the other.
The amount of shrinkage in the width
of one log is compounded by the number of log courses stacked in
the wall’s height. Log home manufacturers and builders have to
plan ahead for an estimated amount of shrinkage. Usually 1-1/2”
to 3” of shrinkage, depending on the moisture content, and then
they must build-in adjustments to doorways, windows, stairs,
plumbing runs, etc. After the home has had time to acclimate and
settle, the builder sometimes has to come back and make the
necessary structural adjustments. Some log home builders do not
ever bother with or plan for this shrinkage, and that is when the
problems really begin!
I have been told more than once by
customers, “At first I was interested in a log home, but then I
realized I did not want the maintenance issues and problems.”
This prompted me to find out what they meant. My research yielded
a lot of information about the exterior of the home. Apparently,
the movement of the logs affects the exterior even more than the
interior. This is relevant since there is more fluctuation in the
temperature and humidity outside as the days and seasons change.
The area between the logs is a critical area. Sealant, caulk and
chinking materials all have various potential hazards. Blisters in
chinking and caulking can be a problem. Logs also have “pitch
pockets” of sap, which cause a gas to be released when heated.
This gas can lead to cracks and blisters.
As larger timber-wood shrinks, cracks,
called “checks,” appear lengthwise in the wood. In post &
beam structures, checks do not cause a problem. They are merely
located in the interior of the home, and they add character to the
wood. As checks occur on the exterior of logs, especially on the
top half of a log, they become an open area on the log’s
exterior surface allowing moisture and insects to enter. It is
recommended that logs be stripped, re-stained and coated with a
new preservative every 3 to 5 years. Chinking also needs periodic
patch or replacement. Post & beam homes use standard wood
siding which is vertical, shingled or clapboard, all beveled to
shed water. Some are even brick, stone, stucco, cementous or wood
combinations. Wood sidings are usually painted or opaque stained,
and often they are back-primed to minimize exposure and warpage.
Many products carrying a 15 to 25 year warranty are available to
coat the siding and trim. Pre-finished materials are becoming very
popular, especially as the labor costs to apply exterior finishes
continue to increase.
How long does it take to build
a house?
The entire building process, from that first meeting until you
finally set out your welcome mat, takes a year to a year and a
half. During that time, you and your builder will brainstorm,
problem-solve, modify, and make decisions as you complete various
stages of the project. Communication is key, which is why choosing
a builder you can talk to is so important.
When should we select a
builder?
It always works best if we have had a chance to conduct a site
plan on your existing lot prior to selecting a builder. This
insures your home design is suitable for your particular piece of
property. Ideally, we have already worked with you on both your
home design, and possibly even helped you with finding and
purchasing your lot, thus making sure you get exactly what you
desire.
How do we go about selecting a
builder?
To select the right builder for your project, you may want to talk
with several prospects, look at some of the houses they've built,
and talk with their clients to get a feel for their working style
as well as their capabilities. Many clients know immediately when
they find the right builder because they seem to just
"click." In any case, we suggest you begin by
telephoning a prospective builder, and we welcome your call!
What is a "program"?
A program is a wish list of "gotta have it,"
"really want it," and "why not ask" features
that will distinguish your custom residence from a production or
"off the shelf" home. Your program might include
cathedral ceilings, a kitchen-family room, a cottage feel, a
gabled roof, morning light, a luxury master suite, a walkout
basement, whatever features are most important to you.
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